Wednesday, 25 July 2018

Salerno (Amalfi Coast) 1 of 2


Salerno is the port we docked at for our trip to the treasured Amalfi Coast. It was raining when we docked so we were warned to take care of puddles and moving vehicles as we walked through the dock area to get to the town. However, the rain had stopped by the time we began our exit and we just had to watch the puddles and oil slick on the pavement. (this is a working dock for heavy industry exports) We were surprised to see hundreds of steel coils stacked up on the dock and beside the route we needed to take. The stacked coils, reminded Ken of Port Kembla’s exports but the general public would never be allowed to walk through the docks at Port Kembla. We’re realising how different safety standards are all over the world. Safety codes for regarding seat belts, helmets, hand rails on stairs and level footpaths are enforced in Australia but ignored in most of the countries we’ve visited (Britain is an exception) so far.



We were on a private tour that Ken organised for ourselves and 6 other couples, around the Almafi Coast which is a magnificent drive around the mid-west cliff-side, coastal road near Naples in Italy. The road winds through 26 tunnels as it hugs the coastline for about 127 km and the views are stunning. Tall limestone cliffs, sandy beaches with holiday accommodation ,villas and flats, shimmering turquoise blue seas with yachts, windsurfer, boats and swimmers and dramatic rock pinnacles formed over time from wind and sea. It is a very pretty area to explore and by 10 am the sun was sparkling on the ocean and reflecting off the cliff and rocks as we drove.

Our Italian driver was friendly but he did not give a running commentary as we drove so we plied him with questions for this area has had volcanic activity over many years, Pompeii ( which we visited last time we were in Italy is nearby) and at one point in our tour we saw the top of Mt. Vesuvius, in the distance. Later in the evening some of our fellow cruisers saw red reflections and glows in the sky, from this active volcano as they stood on the deck of our ship, but Ken and I missed it as we retired after our long, hot day of touring. I’m sure if the ship had announced what was happening, 2000 passengers plus the crew, would have viewed this spectacular sight as well.



Our first stop was at the sea-side town of Positano where we enjoyed a stroll around the plaza which had ancient stone buildings, a belltower and small cafe-bars where people were having coffee or breakfast or just watching the passing parade of tourists, local shoppers and merchants. It was a pretty stone plaza with brightly coloured flower displays and outdoor cafe seating. We were meant to visit the pedestrian area along the beach front but because the coastal traffic was building up, parking near the beach area
impossible and crossing the road just to promenade along the beach front with crowds of sand / seeking holiday makers was not attractive so we voted to move on with our tour



We continued our drive along the Almafi Coastal road where hamlets of white houses seemed to cling to cliff sides in terraced arrangements. Our narrow ancient Roman road is a marvel as it wends its way past different communities villages.

We drove through some further tunnels and up over a mountain pass to arrive at our second stop on the mountain. It was the rustic hillside community of Ravello where many artists reside and tourists enjoy a peaceful and creative village community. We wandered through the cliff-top village and enjoyed browsing its colourful shops and narrow cobbled streets. We especially loved the designs and colours of the local pottery works, colourful woven blankets and art works displayed on footpaths. We visited the square in the village which was surrounded by clusters of stone houses, shops, the village church and had a wonderful view of the mountains. In the square groups of outdoor-table were set up, awaiting the setting up of the weekly markets and a time when families would share meals together in this peaceful town. We were too early for the markets but we visited the church with its tall, beautifully decorated bronze doors. Dorothy and George were part of our group and we enjoyed sitting on the steps of the church, watching the locals roaming about and taking in the fresh cool breeze which filtered through the tall pine trees on the mountain in this sleepy little town.



We left the square and continued our wander through the village and we stumbled on an amazing market garden built on the side of the mountain where the range and yield of crops and the size of the vegetables was impressive. The fertile volcanic soil, the aftermath of Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 AD, is ideal for growing fruits, vegetables and grapes. We watched some of the gardeners tending the crops. These included lettuce, marrow, zucchini, tomato, celery, beetroot, potatoes, onions, orange trees, grape vines basil and many other herbs and vegetables. We could not believe the size of the size of the zucchini flowers that had just been freshly picked, no doubt to be sold in the village market place later in the morning. We also noted that the market garden had an especially beautiful view along the Amalfi Coast and that if this was in Australia it would probably have been sold to a developer to erect multi-storey villas or apartments. Gladly, the people in this village value fresh food over real-estate. We were so pleased to have come across this ‘secret garden’ and our memories of it are warm and appreciative. What a special little hillside village! Still gushing about our experiences we resumed our Amalfi Coast by heading for the coastal town of Amalfi which lies in the Mediterranean. See Salerno -2 blog.